І. GLOCALIZATION
OF BULGARIAN FASHION
IN 2005
What
is "glocalization" of the Bulgarian
fashion in 2005? Are we now closer to
the world and European standards of
dressing if we can talk about standards
at all? Which are the symptoms in the
development in our design of clothing -
names, events, manifestations? What are our biggest successes
abroad? What can we say about 2005
and about the Bulgarian fashion in
general?...
The Bulgarian fashion is in its phase of glocalization,
interpreted as more flexible and "soft" variant of
globalization as it takes into consideration and infuses
in a positive manner both the global as well as the
local; the uniformity as well as the difference (in this
case our point of reference are the views of Roland
Robertson, Sociology Professor with the University
of Pittsburg, on glocalization, respectively timespace,
homogeneity and heterogeneity). What
should we understand under "local", having in mind
the Bulgarian fashion design? Not simply the
mechanical use of the braids and the decorative
cords from the national costumes in the modern
design of the clothing. Similar attempts, though not
exactly mechanical have been recently made by Ani
Avramova and Svetla Dimitrova, by Neli Koleva and
Tseno Vutov and by Atanas Parushev. Such interpretations
should be encouraged in the future as
well. Yet, they do not mean an expression of our
local culture as to seek them in combination and
recombination with the values of globalization. In our
context under local style we should understand the
actual dimensions of the manner of dressing of the
Bulgarians. On the one hand, these dimensions are
a synthesized product of the street fashion and the
fashion of real life and, on the other hand, they are a
synthesized product of the clothing and accessories,
resulting from the concepts of the native designers,
made in Bulgaria, and third, of the traditional attitude
of the Bulgarians to fashion (inevitably aspired to greater talkativeness,
slight kitsch and gaudiness). It
is this last statement that provides an explanation for
the great interest of our compatriots in the Italian
fashion, for which greater sensitivity, greater vitality
and refinement are typical. However glocalization is
unthinkable without the elements of globalization.
What is their expression and more specifically how
are they reflected in the Bulgarian fashion? Most distinctly
they are implemented in the youth style of
dressing and in the works of designers like Mariela
Gemisheva, Kristina and Konstantin, Milka
Alexandrova - Buchi, Eleonora Kirilova, Veronica
Vapirova, and by the fashion houses MirO, Zebra,
Capasca, Battibaleno from Rila Style, Enita, Junona,
Modus Art, Silven, Pretencii, etc. Though in a more
classic variant, the world trends in haut couture are
successfully reflected in the works of Virginia
Zdravkova, Evgenia Zhivkova, Jana Jekova, Albena
Alexandrova, Maria Micheva, Fanni Papadopulu,
Nathalie Genova, Djina Nik, Polya Milanova and
fashion houses like Irida, Tani, Lucille, Romantika,
Mon Amour, Luxima, Scarlet, etc. In short, glocalization
of the Bulgarian fashion in the last year is motivated
by the more intelligent mix between national
taste and global trends, by the bolder and parallel to
that more professional interpretation of the eclectics
as a manner and of the ethnic motifs as a source of
inspiration. Because both the perception and mastering
of the best from the global aesthetics and the
global fashion taste as well as the assertion of the
charm and the national attractiveness of a country
where both traditions and clothing speak out for our
strategic location on the Balkan peninsula, for original
and hot culture, typical for the south parts of East
Europe and for our Mediterranean values, really
matter.
Future success of the Bulgarian and in general of the
Balkan fashion design is only possible under the
domination of the "glocal" over the extremely limited "local" and the excessively broad "global".
And this means modern and adequate interpretation of the
national ethnos and the modern visual culture in
harmony with the global trends in fashion.
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