BULGARIAN TRACE
AROUND WORLD
Issues, concerning the prosperity and the contribution
of the Bulgarian designers, who work abroad - the so-called Bulgarian
trace in fashion, have always been discussed in the previous books
of the Almanac of Bulgarian Fashion. The successful development
and recognition that such talented designers like Miglena Kazaski,
Veselin Yordanov, Emilian Sabev, Dessislava Stoicheva, etc., has
always been commented on the pages of our Almanac. This time we
are happy we can add at least two more names to the list - those
of Irina Simeonova and Aneta Genova. Who are they and what do we
know about their achievements as designers? Irina Simeonova has
been living and working in the USA for years now. She has graduated
the Academy of Art in Sofia. For years she worked with Rila company
and after the changes in Bulgaria in 1989 she worked with Dessislava
fashion house. In 1991 she left Bulgaria and settled in the USA.
She qualifies and works with Fashion House Mary MacFadden, and
later with Due per due.
A
very significant moment in the biography of the designer Irina
Simeonova is her participation with a mixed collection together
with Rila Style fashion house in the cultural program at the opening
of the 49th session of the United Nations in 1994. Our designer
won the competition with the sketches she offered and afterwards
addressed our well known fashion house to offer them joint participation
into such a respectable project.
During
the fashion week in New York Seventh on Sixth in September 1999 Irina
Simeonova showed in the hall of the National
Library a collection
with her own name. She offered 50 unique designs and the fashion show
started with the Bulgarian Folk song Polegnala e Todora (Todora Is
Lying) and most of the time the soundtrack of the film The Fifth Element
was played. The daughter of Ivana and Donald Trump - Ivanka, took part
in the show as a model. The collection idea launches apparel for the
business woman, which is ready-to-wear and practical in general, and
just few dresses of Hollywood Star style were shown at the end. The
fabrics that prevail are microfibre and also natural fabrics - cotton,
silk and linen. The linen was especially manufactured by a high technology
system and has the glitter of the organza... At present Irina Simeonova
teaches at the Katherine Gips College of Fashion in New York - drawing,
styling, tailoring, etc. The college is very new and she together with
the rest of the lecturers there are eager to establish it as fast as
possible as a respectable educational and training centre of fashion
and design.
The other successful Bulgarian designer is Aneta
Genova. She also lives in the USA. She was born in Varna where
she finished
the English language
school. Later she studed Computing Technology at the University. She
has always wanted to do fashion and fashion design. She won a fashion
project competition, organised by Art Institute International. On that
occasion she left for abroad in 1993. She enrolled Fashion Design speciality
at the Art Institute in Florida. In 1996 she studied at Fashion Institute
of Technology, and in 2000 she graduated Parsons. She works in the
field of machine knitwear. For a couple of seasons she had worked with
Marc Jacobs and with Polo Ralph Lauren, Lady Footwalker, Pepe Jeans
etc. Since 2002 she is free-lanced. She has her own brand Aneta Genova.
At present she produces covers for the technology products - cases
and accessories for telephones, CD players and for the latest MP 3
- players.
Let's go back to the economic dynamics and doubtless
development of our fashion industry inclusive the export of wear and
textile. In 2002
Bulgaria increased even more its share in the export of textile works
for the EU countries. For the first nine months of 2002 only, Bulgaria
has exported to Germany clothes to the amount of US dollars 110 525
992, for France to the amount of US dollars 79 569 839 and to the amount
of US dollars 57 484 703 to Italy. The biggest quantity of machine
knitwear for the same period was exported to Greece (to the amount
of US dollars 10 525 992), Italy (to the amount of US dollars 40 193
317 ) and to Germany (to the amount of US dollars 37 297 707) (4) .
The fact that the association of the companies from the Light Industry
was included in the project Perfect Link of the European Commission
under the auspices of the Bulgarian Industrial Chamber is a very positive
one in the process of our integration to the European structures. This
act can be considered as a very positive and important step of the
process of recognizing the Bulgarian achievements in the area of fashion
design, fashion industry and the business with clothing and textile
as well as a chance for everyone involved in design, manufacture and
trade with clothing and accessories to be equal and of the same status
in technological, informational, economic and commercial aspect with
the European and also with their partners and competitors abroad.
What
other traces has the Bulgarian fashion left abroad? At the end
of 2002 the world mass media announced that Varna fashion house
for neckties Viktoria Unique with the designer Rositsa Parashkevanova
is nominated for the honored award of EMRC EuroMarket - Brussels.
The respectable praise is awarded for managerial skills and for
special meris in the business. Rositsa Parashkevanova was also
awarded with a Diploma for High Quality of the manifactured produce
- Moscow 2003.
In its first issue in 2003, the popular French magazine
for photography Photo published on its cover a photo of the famous
Bulgarian fashion and advertising photograph Encho Naidenov. In
parallel to this the master of the focus won an eight-day holiday
on the island of Maurizius. All that is the big award he was given
by Photo, leaving behind colleagues of his from all over the world
(participants from 70 countries offered 51 600 pictures of theirs
in 2002). The model on the front cover of the magazine is the eighteen-year-old
Snezhina Valkova from Visage Agency. Make-up by Maria Ilieva, hairstyle
- Maria Tomova. The pictures were taken for the December issue
of Club M magazine and the same snapshot is published on the magazine
cover. Another photo of Naydenov is published in the same number
of Photo Magazine - in Charm Section, and it is is of the models
Tedy and Stacy. We shall remind for the fans of the fashion statistics
that this is the second Bulgarian cover publication of Photo. Another
Bulgarian photographer, Temelko Temelkov, won that prize two years
ago. "Photo award is a very great recognition first for the
Bulgarian fashion photographers as a whole, and second - for myself
personally", the excited winner addressed the media.
During the week of the haute couture in Paris in
January this year, the spring-summer 2003 trends were launched.
On Aura Tout Vu Fashion House attracted the attention of the experts
with its original style and professional interpretation of details.
We are happy to mention that the creative trio included along with
Andre Pesoa (Portugal) the Bulgarian artists Livia Stoyanova (daughter
of the famous Bulgarian painter Prof. Stoyan Stoyanov - Techi)
and Yassen Samuilov (son of the prominent Bulgarian poet Victor
Samuilov). Their asymmetric works are made of silk, satenised crepe,
embroidered taffeta, silver lace and many sequins. Asked by the
mass media about the concept of their message, Livia Stoyanova
explained that their clothes were inspired by the environment and
the cars, which symbolized the eternal movement and the desire
of the modern man to travel.
The
master of the exquisite ladies' style Zhana Zhekova (two times
winner of Zlatna Igla (Golden Needle) Award of the Academy of Fashion)
represented with her collection our country at the 19th Festival
Saraevo Winter on March 10, 2003. The motto of the subsequent festival
was Made in the World of Art and actually the only fashion event
within it was the show of the Bulgarian designer. The collection,
which was shown in the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, included
20 models of formal and super elegant outfits. Part of them, as
far as silhouette and details were concerned, represented continuation
of Zhana Zhekova's concept of her last collection. Almost all her
works are painted in a picturesque way, toned and coulured. For
the first time she used new, computer-designed lace, chiffon of
natural silk, as well as structured relief laces. The collection
included only gowns. The girls, who showed the works of Zhana Zhekova
at the Saraevo Winter Festival were from the Sofia fashion agency
Kasta Diva and were selected especially by Amalia Tincheva. That
is what Zhana Zhekova said: "I think of my participation in
Saraevo as an opportunity to show abroad that there is unique boutique
fashion in Bulgaria, which is at an European level. Those who know
me would not be surprised, as I go on being true to my creed -
to create clothes of elegant, clean cut."
The world information agency Reuters spread in the
Internet a photo from the fashion show of Jeni Style Fashion House
of designer
Evgenia
Zhivkova, who presented in Hall 3 of the National Palace of Culture
her latest collection spring-summer 2003. 60 outfits, divided and structured
into several special themes, were shown before selected audience and
many journalists. In philosophical and aesthetical aspects, the collection
offered the return to single-breasted suits, influenced by men's clothes.
A special place is given to the different garments on skirts, jackets
and trousers, as well as to fringes, feathers, etc. in some of the
themes. As far as the construction is concerned, the turned-over seams
(the seams are on the outside of the garments) and the body-buttons
are a new moment. The play of the silhouette itself, the techniques
of buttoning, the colours - shepherd's plaid in white and black, yellow-green,
beige, amber, intensive black combined with pink, black with flower
patterns, red and checks are also fashion news. Mainly models from
Visage agency, led by the face of Jeni Style - Evgenia Kalkandzhieva,
and Miss Bulgaria 2003 Iva Titova, took part in the show.
The designer explained the philosophy of her collection
in the following way: "The compass of my latest collection points
to the beautiful and the desired woman. The clothes are not fixed for
a single specific age group only, they are universal. There are no
injured or overlooked ladies from this point of view. The single themes
are in an overall harmony, but they also have their own, individual
value. I have put a stress on the long asymmetric gowns, which will
be among the hit of this year school-leaving balls. I recommend exquisite
and not overdresses outfits to the future school-leavers. The bodices
corsage tops, combined with skirts, are also very fashionable and fresh."
The Bulgarian hairdressers' team took a successful
part in the European Hairdressers Competition, which was recently
held in
Strasbourg. The
representatives of the Association of the Hairdressers in Bulgaria
chaired by Mrs. Veneta Ignatova demonstrated perfectionism and originality
in the design of the hairdressers', who took part in the competition
for the European Cup. Maria Tomova won the second place in the colour
category and fifth place in the evening hairdo category, and Pavlina
Gemedzhieva - sixth place in the evening hairdo category.
The
short description of the evening hairdo of Pavlina Gemedzhieva
requires to mention that it is in tresses and is quite difficult
to make. The hair is short and is dyed in three colours with nuances.
Its make takes eighteen minutes. The hairdo is intended for the
active, bold and eccentric lady, or otherwise said - for the ageless
lady. Here is also what Maria Tomova herself said: "The most
important thing in this category is the technical performance,
i.e. the cleaness of the performance. The shape as a whole should
be seen from any angle. And it is triangle. We have not done a
similar hairdo so far. We have created it in Strasbourg for the
first time and the main criteria are the quality criteria."
Pavlina Gemedzhieva adds to the statement of her
colleague Mimi Tomova that the preparation of these hairdos requires
much training
and skills.
The clients, who come and see the way these hairdos are made, would
like to copy part of these hairdos to a certain way, they like the
colour, etc. They would like to look different.
The indisputable success of the representatives
if the Association of the Hairdressers in Bulgaria is a sign for
the continuation
of
the victories of 2002. Then Maria Tomova was very successful: she
won the
seventh place at the European Cup Competition in Vienna, first
place in Athens for colour, and the Bulgarian team as a whole won a
place
for the World Championships in Las Vegas, where unfortunately;y
they could not go. Anyway, the wonderful impression of the great growth
in the professional events, which the new generation hairdo stylists
show recently, remains.
The doyen of coiffeur art in Bulgaria, stylist Kapanov
went on with his large scale international events. On October 5,
2003, he organised in Hall 3 of the National Palace of Culture
the Show of Nations, into which his team, as well as Framezi (Italy),
Bernard Moreaux (France), Gianni Fiorinno for Cramer (Italy), Siebel
(Belgium), Rilken (Greece), Luis Longerass (Spain) and other hairdressers,
teams and brands from Germany. Italy, etc., participated .
* * *
The short and not quite comprehensive notes and reflections
on what had happened in the Bulgarian fashion for the last twelve
months show that the Bulgarian design stands its grounds despite
the economic and market difficulties. In 2002-2003, there were
interesting and original contributions of designers and fashion
houses both in individual and in the collective and corporate sense.
New, although not so big steps in the direction of the accession
of Bulgaria to the European Union were made through the movement
in the field of clothing and textile manufacturing. The increased
exports of Bulgarian fashion goods and fabrics is a serious argument
in favour of the statement that the Bulgarian fashion industry
and trade are coming into a a sort of a recovery stage.
The experience from the last year shows also that
it is worth to demonstrate more bravery as far as the search of
ideas and forms on behalf of the fashion creators, especially in
the use of new technologies and high quality fabrics The dynamics
and the development of the Bulgarian fashion design was marked
most clearly among the rising generations of fashion stylists -
not only students from the universities and colleges, but also
among the ones, who have already graduated not only in Bulgaria
but also the ones who have studied fashion and fashion design abroad.
Such reasoning and statements lead also to the general conclusion:
the Bukgarian fashion design is developing and strengthening, stepping
on the already established tradition and boldly revealing the potential
of the youngest fashion creators in the direction of more creativity,
innovation and integrity as far as the world fashion trends and
the inevitable fashion globalisation are concerned. |