bulgarian FASHION 2003-04
Observations, Impre ssions, Reflections
What
do some most general observations on the development and the manifestations
in the field of clothes design in Bulgaria for the last twelve
months show? Can we talk about specific tendencies, symptoms and
syndromes in the fashion creation and in the fashion business in
our country? In the one hand, in purely cultural, and more precisely
- in aesthetical aspect, the greater part of the leading names
in the Bulgarian fashion reoriented towards the application of
more practical and even sporty cuts, silhouettes and visions in
their collections, putting an even greater accent on the supplementing
components - make-up, hair design, body art, musical and scenic
effects, multimedia, etc. Partially this is the unavoidable echo
from the invasion of the casual style in the world fashion and
the strengthened influence of the new generations of designers
on the unshakable until several years ago statute of the haute
couture, and why not - of the French fashion. Partially, all this
is a result of the even greater opportunities offered by the new
technologies, the virtual and computer science, the new media and
the noble invasion of youthful values.
On
the other hand, the organization itself of the events on the catwalks
is as if it marks a trend to a better logic, order and co-ordination.
However, taking into account the fact that this tendency is rather
shy, it could not be mentioned that together with the traditional
autumn seasons of Bulgarian Fashion Forum, other group events,
such as Visage Prete-a-porte, the reviews of TZUM Trade Centre,
which is known as the Bulgaria Harrods, the ones of Moden Salon
(Fashion Showroom) (referring to school-leaving ball garments),
Moden Spektar (Fashion Range), Moden Buket (Fashion Bouquet) as
well as Modna Fiesta (Fashion Feast), which is still seeking its
real marine and summer niche. However, quite often these collective
events are competed both by the quality of the staging and the
presence of VIP guests and by the perfection of the shown design
of the one-man shows of Evgenia Zhivkova for Jeni Style, Zhana
Zhekova for Lavazza, Maria Micheva for Nedelya (Sunday), Albena
Aleksandrova for Roshavata Garga (Tousled Crow), Maria Nedkova,
Milka Alexandrova - Buchi for Roca, Fani Papadopulu, Darina Manchenko,
Yordanka Chernaeva, Dora Momekova, Virginia Zdravkova, the fashion
houses Galinel, Irida, etc.
Third, the prolonged collapse, into which the Bulgarian fashion
experiment has been for several years now is outlined as specifically
negative tendency. With the exception of a few events, including
Mira Bachvarova's show Spirit and Body after the idea of Silvi
Aleksiev (accepted in a quite controversial way by the media because
of the too much nudity as an end in itself) (1) and the fashion
show of Mariela Gemisheva Fashion Fire (also offering abundant
body nakedness, but accepted positively as a whole in the public
space), almost no other worth remembering vanguard and experimental
events took place. The reasons include the current crisis of the
world fashion experiment, as well as the traditional weakness of
our vanguard designers not to experiment in the sphere of fabrics
and technology, but rather seek the scandal, the unusual, the uproar.
The lack of money, of enough sponsors and funds for promoting the
non-ordinary and innovative in the new fashion design also represent
a negative factor for fashion experiments.
How
was the Bulgarian light industry and the fashion business in particular,
including the production and export of textile and clothing developing
in the last year? And what does the fact that our trade balance
in the trade with textile and textile products is positive in the
recent years mean ? Although indirectly connected to the fashion
design, the Bulgarian economy and textile and clothing sector in
particular, are indicative for the serious potential of our country
in this respect. What do the statistics and economic analyses show?
The industrial output has increased in 2002 in comparison to 2001
as follows: production of textile and textile products - 109,7%,
and the production of clothes, including leather and fur clothes
- 113,0%. This makes the specialists and experts to conclude that "the
branch is of positive production dynamics as compared to the other
sectors of economy." (2) .
Yordan
Vassilev, Chairman of the Association of light industry companies,
points out in his special report to the European Organization on
Textile and Clothing (headquartered in Brussels) how inspiring
is the contribution of the Bulgarian textile and clothing industry
for the Bulgarian economy recently, especially bearing in mind
the indices for export and employment shares. "155 934 people
were employed in the textile and clothing sector in 2002, which
is a 14% increase compared to the previous year and represents
the greatest share (29%) of the employed in the processing industry.
The branch retains its place of the greatest employer in the processing
industry…The sector has become one of the most attractive
fields for investments and employment with a good growth potential.
The biggest invenstors are Miroglio Group, Italy - textile, Rollmann,
Germay - clothing industry, and many Greek companies, Maser Holding,
Turkey - textile" (4).
The Bulgarian Exhibition of Clothing and Textile, organized between
October 10 and 12, 2003 at the Inter Expo Centre, Sofia, may be appraised
as a positive fact and unmistakable contribution to the efforts for
the accession of Bulgaria to the European Union. It was organized
by the Association of Clothing and Textile Exporters, whose manager
is
Robert Aleksandriiski. Along with the great number of stands of Bulgarian
and foreign designers, fashion houses, companies, specialized in
the trade with fashion goods, the exhibition also carried out a significant
programme for exchange of information, opinions and proposals for
the
development of this so important branch of our light industry. The
leading topics were Bulgaria - Textile Manufacturing Centre in Europe,
Key Factors for Attracting Investments in the Sector, The Challenge
of 2005 and Balkan Response (a round table with representatives of
Albania, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Serbia and Montenegro), Clothing Market
in Bulgaria, Bulgarian Manufacturer Principles of Behaviour and Advanced
Manufacturing Technologies.
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