V. HOW FASHION JOURNALISTS EVALUATE THE LAST FASHION
We, the Bulgarian fashion journalists, represent an interesting
amalgam. The substance called “Bulgarian fashion journalism” includes
both routine and blissful youth, strict professionalism and light,
frivolous evaluations; iron-strong impartiality and admission of
liking and prejudice. We are not perfect in the same way the Bulgarian
fashion design is not perfect either. You can often see us watching
and commenting (sometimes happily, sometimes with sad and pensive
faces) everything the Bulgarian designers display at the fashion
shows. And although sometime we hesitate – because of subjective
partiality or because of some circumstances, our evaluation is one
of the most trustworthy ones for the status and the development of
the Bulgarian fashion, including for 2004 as well. This made me seek
the opinion of some of my colleagues, while I was writing the present
preface to the Almanac. Not all of them managed to respond in the
short time, which I offered to them to express their opinion. However,
here follow part of the answers to my only question: Which are the
three most serious achievements of the Bulgarian fashion design during
the expiring 2004 fashion year?
Boris Angelov, Editor-in-Chief of Koi Magazine and fashion editor
of Monitor newspaper
1.The introduction of serious capitals as an engine of industry.
I mean the establishment of brands as Agressia and Capasca.
introduction of fresh Bulgarian brands with updated ideas for fashion
which is possible to wear, such as Zebra.
3.The elimination of models
pageants as the most important events in the fashion calendar.
Vassilka Garelova, Deputy Editor-in-Chief of Zhensko Tsarstvo newspaper:
1.The show of Agressia Fashion House at Kempinski-Zografski hotel
2.The Fashion Fiesta in Albena in June.
3.Virginia Zdravkova’s appearance at Mrs. Globe pageant.
Yulia Vulkova – Fashion Editor of Sedmichen Troud weekly:
1. Agressia Fashion House for its masculinity and provocation.
Virginia Zdravkova for Virginia atelier because of her tenderness,
thrill, femininity and sex appeal.
3. Galinel Fashion House because
of the luxury and the prestige.
Detelina Mileva, Editor-in-Chief – Perfecta magazine
1.Virgina Atelier – as she is immeasurably feminine!
2.Jeni Style – as she is immeasurably classical!
3.The cavalier is in Agressia and he is immeasurably elegant!
Donka Ganeva, Chairman of the Academy of Fashion and Editor-in-Chief
of Review and Dieta i Krassota magazines:
If I paraphrase the famous equation of Roland Bart, we may talk
about fashion only when the bread is not a subject of necessity any
more and the income stability has turned into a fact of everyday
life. A piece of clothes then turns into a factor of the social and
aesthetic position of the individual, and not a means of protection
against weather changes.
In this respect, we went a big stretch of the road. Until recently,
the events in the Bulgarian fashion were concentrated mainly in the
field of unique copies and the best samples were designed for formal
and graduate balls campaigns. Today we are witnessing a boom in the
young people’s everyday fashion, in the business woman’s apparel,
in men’s wear, and this is the most significant fact related to the
Bulgarian fashion for the period 2003-2004 for me.
Because of this, I perceive the hundreds of fashion shows as a necessity
for creative potential expression, and the dozens of “weeks”, “salons”,
“fiestas”, etc. as a consequence of the process of democratization
of the fashion.
According to me, the most significant event, without any competition
at all, is the Zlatna Igla (Golden Needle) awarding ceremony – the
most terrific performance, completely in line with the current status
of the Bulgarian fashion.
Lilia Stambolova, Fashion Editor of Maximum magazine:
to me, the fashion show of wedding gowns designer Virginia Zdravkova
was the most impressive one in this year. She works with very pretty
fabrics of high quality. The show, which presented her last collection
in the Cinema Centre in Boyana, took place against the background
of Spartacus movie scenery and turned into a real performance.
2. The tenth anniversary of fashion make-up artist Kiril Chalukov
was the other highly professional event, which impressed me most.
The make-up artist has prepared not only a professional multimedia
presentation, but he has also brought together the most beautiful
Bulgarian women who are both his fans and customers. Lili Ivanova
congratulated the make-up artist with a song. Model Rossi Chernogorova
and actress Elena Petrova were among the guests. The exquisite
book of the artist presented HIS make-up Of the woman who reached
biggest heights in the high jump and who is currently a deputy
minister of sports – Stefka Kostadinova.
3. The third event is related to a foreign presentation in Bulgaria,
and despite the fact that I liked it very much, I will not quote
it, as in this way I shall violate the regulations of your inquiry.
Maria Georgieva, Deputy Editor-in-chief of Zhenata Dnes magazine
1.This year I was mostly impressed by young designer Milena Dobreva
(her name has been connected mainly with her sister Dessi –
the ex-vocalist of Slavi Trifonov’s show). Despite her successful
Great Britain (she graduated the prestigious Saint Martins
of Fashion and was a probationer with one of the greatest British
stylist Vivian Westwood), she did not turn her back to the
Bulgarian audience and presented an original collection at the Bulgarian
2.I am also impressed by the development of Agressia Fashion
House. After losing its positions on the fashion catwalk for
a short period
of time, the brand is back with a new potential. I would specify
the presentation of the men’s collection in Sofia with the
participation of Orlin Goranov as the greatest success of Agressia
3.I am also fascinated by Maria Nedkova. The designer that
has impressed the fashion critics with her collections of style
also found a solution of style for their presentation this
year. She opened her own boutique, whose original architectural
may compete with the designers’ boutiques in the world capitals
Mario Trifonov, Editor-in-chief of Beauty magazine:
1.Virginia Zdravkova’s fashion show among the scenery of Spartacus
movie production, which, according to me, is in no way inferior
to the best samples abroad.
2.The diploma performance of the National Academy of Art graduates,
which proved that there is certainly a hope for the future of the
3.The exclusive achievement for the Bulgarian fashion design is
also the fact that there is a Bulgarian fashion contribution to
the much talked about Sex and the City TV series, which was awarded
several EMI Awards. Actress Cynthia Nixon (Miranda) wears in one
of the episodes a green dress, which is created by the Varna designer
Iliana Ricketts, alias Ilya, who is currently living in the USA.
Nada Nesheva, Troud newspaper:
The three victories of the Bulgarian fashion in 2004:
1. The men’s shirt of Drago and Rado, whose manufacturing technology
has been patented and for which manufacturers from the USA and
theUK are negotiating.
2. The coming to the daylight of photographer Valentin Mechanov
who has been shooting world campaigns since years, but appeared
on a Bulgarian stage for the first time – he received the golden
needle in March.
3. The presentation of Livia Stoyanova at the haute couture fashion
shows in Paris.
* * *
2004 was not one of the revolutionary years for the Bulgarian fashion
design. No miracles happened actually during this year, however
a number of the positive
trends typical for the Bulgarian fashion at the borderline of two millenniums
were preserved and even developed to a further extent. The fresh breath
of air coming from the work of the new generation of fashion
social commitment through a number of charity actions, as well
as the orientation
to the current style of greater practicality, freshness and informality
are in harmony and symmetry with the overall trend of the world
And if the Bulgarian designers of clothing and accessories make a critical
revaluation of what they have achieved and draw the appropriate professional
lessons and conclusions, then they will certainly surprise us in a positive
way and achieve even more significant quality development in the next
years – during the expected by all of us complicated, interested
with ordeals time of the accession of Bulgaria as a full member
to the EU.